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An Island Like No Other
If you are on vacation or living in Florida, you’ve probably visited Sanibel Island. Or perhaps you wanted to stay away, as it sounds too expensive and crowded. There’s a toll to get there, congested traffic, hefty parking fees, and if you want to stay there, you’ll have another hurdle. There’s only one campground that seems always to be full.
Then Hurricane Ian landed on September 28, 2022, tearing out beaches, homes, restaurants, and most importantly–the causeway that carries people over to this haven where “Island time” rules, people practice the Sanibel Stoop, and cyclists pedal their way around this place known for colorful shells, beautiful beaches and abundant sunshine. Here’s the good news–Sanibel and nearby Captiva Island are returning despite Ian’s devastation, including as much as 12 feet of storm surge. More and more restaurants and businesses are open, and the area warmly welcomes visitors.
We headed there in March 2024 following a friend’s tip that we could probably book a few nights at the elusive Periwinkle Park and Campground. So, based on their tip, we called the campground and booked our stay. We called our trip the “after the hurricane tour.”
Getting There
We knew traffic to the island would be heavy with construction workers and big trucks commuting daily in addition to visitors. The toll is $6 if you have a transponder and $9 if you don’t. The good news is that taking the causeway back to the mainland is free. Once on the island, stop at the local Chamber of Commerce for brochures and any information you need.
Staying There
Periwinkle Park and Campground accepts short-term stays from one day to six months. They take short-term reservations in April for the following winter after their seasonal campers have had the chance to book. Just call them at 239-472-1433 to see if you can get in. Dogs are not allowed, but they do allow cats (we travel with one) and birds. Also, no credit cards are accepted, cash or check only. Their nightly rate is $70 for two people, and for additional guests, it is $7 each. It’s a short, winding bike ride through a neighborhood to reach the nearest beach, and staff are eager to point the way.
Getting Around
If you are a cyclist, you’ll find 23 miles of well-planned paved bike paths to take you just about anywhere you want to go. The campground is right on the bike trail, with easy access to the lighthouse, restaurants, and shops.
Parking
We used paid parking lots sparingly, finding their $5-an-hour fees steep. Many of the lots had designated RV spots. We see parking enforcement staff daily, so be mindful of how long you are parked in one of these lots.
Beaches and Shelling
Sanibel’s shape and position enable the island to act as a scoop for seashells that wash ashore from the Gulf of Mexico. The “Sanibel Stoop” is a name given to the people bent at the waist scouring the sand for sought-after shells. Although I joined several social media sites about shelling at Sanibel, we found only one somewhat rare shell and didn’t see any of the big shells Sanibel is known for. Many social media posts were claimed as “fake,” and locals told me it takes a keen hunter to study the beaches, locations, and tide charts to find the rare shells. Sanibel Lighthouse, or Point Ybel Light, first lit in 1884, is one of the first lighthouses on the Gulf Coast north of Key West and the Dry Tortugas. This historical landmark sustained significant damage and was being reconstructed during our stay.
J. N. Ding Darling Wildlife Refuge
More than half of the island is designated wildlife refuge. Known for its migratory bird populations, J. N. “Ding” Darling National Wildlife Refuge is part of the largest undeveloped mangrove ecosystem in the United States. You can walk, bicycle, or drive the four-mile wildlife drive. We stopped at the visitor center first, where we met a friendly guide asking if we wanted to join her car caravan tour.
Dining
Friends who’ve been on Sanibel Island recommended eating at Doc Ford’s Rum Bar and Grill, and it had just re-opened post-hurricane when we arrived. The friendly server told us they sustained several feet of storm surge from Ian. In addition to tasty food, Doc’s has plenty of merch to bring home.
Our three-day stay in Sanibel gave us plenty to see and do. Businesses greeted us with open arms and thanked us for coming. Since we had never been here before, we didn’t know what we were missing.
When You Go
The island is still recovering and welcomes tourists and their wallets. The Sanibel-Captiva Chamber website provides up-to-date information on restaurants, businesses, and now open services.
You might come across no-see-ums or biting midges during your stay. These tiny bugs came out to harass us every evening. We arrived after red tide had dispersed and encountered cloudy water at the beaches; the Sanibel-Captiva Conservation Foundation has information on what affects the Island’s water clarity. The newly imported sand probably influenced our shell hunting.
Call Periwinkle Park and Campground at 239-472-1433 for reservation information.
Bring your bikes, sun hats, bathing suits, and a bag for your shells, whether you plan to stay a few days or hours.
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