An Olympic Adventure

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Discovering a Rainforest

Ferns. Moss. Periwinkle blue hydrangeas.

Tiny ferns sprout from moss-covered tree stumps. Moss hangs from trees and covers almost everything from roofs to water fountains. Blue hydrangeas add a pop of color along the roads. Humidity was so heavy it seemed you were wrapped in it. I savor these memories from our two trips into the rainforest in our Leisure Travel Van.

But wait–aren’t rainforests in tropical areas like Costa Rica? Did we drive to Costa Rica twice? Nope. Think Olympic National Park. More than 70% of the rainforests in the continental United States exist in western Washington State at Olympic National Park, where it rains about 12-14 feet yearly. Temperatures here rarely drop below freezing or go above 80 degrees Fahrenheit, qualifying the lush forests at Hoh, Queets, Quinault, and Bogchiel as temperate rainforests within this majestic park; other temperate rainforests in the United States are found in Alaska and the Appalachian Mountains.

As I said, we’ve been twice to the state of Washington, each time part of a long trip from our home in Michigan. Both times, we entered from a ferry that took us back into the United States from Vancouver Island. So, let’s start at Port Angeles, Washington.

Lake Crescent Lodge

You’ll find Lake Crescent Lodge about 25 miles (40 kilometers) west of Port Angeles along 101, also called Olympic Highway. Built-in 1916, this historic lodge is the hub for trails, kayak rentals, cabins, and a dining room. President Franklin D. Roosevelt visited in 1937 and signed into law the creation of Olympic National Park the following year.

Sol Duc Hot Springs

The first time we came to Washington, we thought it would be great to spend two nights at Sol Duc Hot Springs–all I can say is don’t bother. It’s nearly a half-hour drive south of 101, and to say we were surprised to see our “campground” was an understatement. The treed tent campground adjacent to this parking lot was a lot nicer. We didn’t try the hot springs, and frankly, I can’t remember why–perhaps we were anxious to get to a scenic campground.

On our first trip, we spent one night at the RV campground at Sol Duc Springs.

Mora Campground

Located about one hour down 101 from Lake Crescent Lodge, just past Forks, you’ll enter the lush coastal forest where Mora Campground is located, near the Quillayute River along the western coast of Olympic National Park.

Seedlings germinate on nurse logs, which I found fascinating.

When you venture onto Recreation.gov, you’ll find that Mora Campground releases campsites by loop in three staggered blocks six months, two weeks, and four days in advance. So if you miss the first opportunity to reserve at six months, you’ll have two more chances. We lucked out with a first-come, first-served site.

Yes, moss grows just about everywhere at Mora Campground.

Gray skies, cooler weather, and huge drift logs define Rialto Beach, about a two-mile drive from Mora Campground. Always be mindful of high tide before walking the coast.

Hoh Rainforest

Your next stop is Kalaloch Campground, about an hour down 101. On our last trip, we saw signs for the Hoh Rainforest Visitor Center and took a side trip heading east on Upper Hoh Road. We only made it to the Hard Rain Cafe about a half-hour in; other diners cautioned us that it was another half hour to get to the Visitor Center, and there was an hour wait just to get into the parking lot, so we turned back. We did have time, however, to walk across the street to explore this trail to the river. If we were to go again, we’d plan to spend one night at the Hoh Rainforest Campground.

Ruby Beach

Continuing along 101, you’ll see signs for Ruby Beach, one of the most popular areas in the Olympic Peninsula. It’s worth a stop.

Kalaloch Campground

Kalaloch is one of the most popular areas of Olympic National Park, and we were lucky to grab a site at its campground, which has the same six-month, two-week, and four-day release of campsites. The campground sits atop a bluff; hiking along the sandy beach, searching tide pools for creatures, and birdwatching are popular activities. Kalaloch Lodge is a half-mile south of the campground; its Creekside Restaurant is open for breakfast and dinner, making a pleasant stop on your way out.

Our campsite in the “D” loop was just a short walk from the bluff overlooking the ocean.

See that fence atop the bluff? It was our sunset watchpoint, where we could walk down steps behind these driftwood posts to the beach.

Sunset means time to bundle up along the coast.

A perfect Pacific Ocean sunset at Kalaloch Campground.

The next morning we were blessed to see the sun filtering through the trees at our campsite.

Lake Quinault

Once you leave Kalaloch Campground, reaching Lake Quinault is another 40 minutes. Time spent in the Quinault Valley at Lake Quinault will give you a peek into the vibrant life within the “Valley of the Rain Forest Giants.”

Here, you’ll find the big ones, the record holders. Giant western red and Alaskan cedars, Sitka spruce, western and mountain hemlocks, and five of the ten largest Douglas Firs are found here.

This giant Douglas fir is estimated to be 400 years old. Others are 250-500 years old, with a few aged at 900 years.

It’s a short walk from a parking lot to see the World’s Largest Spruce Tree, estimated to be 1,000 years old and nearly 200 feet tall.

This is where we discovered an abundance of beautiful periwinkle blue hydrangeas along the roads.

Walk along the road in Quinault to see vibrant blue hydrangeas.

We stopped in at the lodge, and once we saw their breakfast menu, we decided to nix ours for theirs the next day.

Smoked salmon hash: smoked salmon, red onion, arugula, potatoes, cotija cheese, peppadew pepper aioli, topped with a sunny side egg.

Sweet potato pancakes topped with candied pecans, with sausage.

Cross-country travel is a journey to discover unknown places, and Olympic National Park, about 2,500 miles west of our home in Michigan, checked all our boxes for exploring a world different from where we live. That’s what traveling on the road is all about.

When You Go

Olympic National Park encompasses nearly one million acres, including Mount Olympus, and more than 70 miles of rugged Pacific coastline, in addition to the rainforests. If you go during the summer, its peak season, we advise making campground reservations in advance. Although we could get last-minute accommodations at a few places, we had to drive around Lake Chenault and wait to see any cancellations. Also, remember that some of these places are in remote areas, with just one or two small towns along the way. Plan to fuel up when you can, not when you need to, and if you are on the coast, always consult the tide charts before you hike along the coast.

Bill & Denise Semion

Michigan-based Leisure Explorers Bill and Denise Semion use more than 75 years of combined writing and photography experience to bring you, along with their cat, on their adventures across the U.S. and Canada in their 2023 Wonder MBL. Bill is an award-winning travel/outdoor writer and author of two travel books. Denise is an accomplished photographer and outdoor communicator.