Got Oxygen?

Wow! The air does seem thin up here we thought, as we stepped down out of our Unity travel van. We were in Leadville, Colorado for the weekend. Leadville is the highest incorporated city in the United States, sitting at an elevation of 10,152 ft.  We were here this particular weekend for a running race.  Well … maybe Teresa was, but I was really here to cheer her on, at least at the start and finish, and then ride my mountain bike while she was out of sight!  To call this a ‘running’ race may be stretching it a little though.  I did see people running, but I probably saw even more people making a quick walk or slow run of it.  Regardless, it was a race and no matter how you finished, running or walking, it was a huge task and even bigger accomplishment!

The race is called the Leadville Trail Marathon and Heavy Half.  You get the option to choose which torturous distance you wish to subject yourself to.  For the non-runners reading this, a typical half-marathon is a distance of 13.1 miles.  As you may have noticed in the title of the race, this is called the ‘Heavy’ half.  Well, to add a little more excitement?… challenge?… torture?, the half is actually 15.46 miles.  Don’t worry though, the marathon distance is only 26.2 miles, yep…. twenty six point two miles!!  Did I mention were at the highest city in the United States?  And, to add to the difficulty of the event, you were not only going to start the race at 10,152 ft, but you were going to immediately climb… and climb… and continue to climb until you topped out at a maximum elevation of 13,185 ft.  Then, once you got there, you would turn yourself around and head back to the start/finish line.

Now, I don’t want to make this all about a running race, that none of you may have interest in.  I  really want to tell you about Leadville and our experience camping there and enjoying this quaint historic mining town with an extensive history and amazing views.  This was our first time to Leadville and we weren’t sure what to expect.  We parked Pedro (our Unity CB) at the Leadville RV Corral.  It’s located on the south end of town right off the main street, which isn’t called main, but Harrison Street.  This is a great location in that it allows you to walk everywhere!  The RV park itself isn’t anything fancy, but it’s got all the necessary hookups and amenities.  We ended up not using the showers and bathrooms so I can’t report on that, but I can tell you the WiFi service was good enough to stream movies over.  The owner and manager lives directly on the property and uses a white-board to manage reservations, so don’t expect automatic emails or any type of electronic confirmation when you reserve a spot.  But… rest assured, if you reserve a spot, he will have one for you!

Our RV spot

View out our window

As far as things to do and places to grab some food and drink, there are plenty.  They even have an Oxygen Bar to get a dose of oxygen if the lack of it is wearing you down or you’re suffering from a little bit of altitude sickness.  You can purchase a session and sniff on some flavored oxygen to revive your senses, or you can even purchase portable oxygen cans with an inhaler.  In addition to O2 bars, there are also some regular bars and a local brewery.  We did try some of the local restaurants too.  My favorites were High Mountain Pies and Tennessee Pass Cafe.  High Mountain Pies is a little pizzeria on one of the side streets right off the main street.  They offer pizza, calzones, and sandwiches.  It’s got a very small dine-in area and then some outside seating as well.  The other establishment, Tennessee Pass had more room both inside and outside.  When we went, they had live music playing outside in their large patio area.  Their menu is more extensive with various options and they also provide a good assortment of adult beverages.  The food was quite good!

Tennessee Pass Cafe Patio

Be prepared though, depending on the time of year you go there it could potentially be a little chilly!  Even when we went there in June, the night temperatures dropped!  Remember, you’re at over 10,000 ft., so when the sun goes down so does the temperature.  The main street also has quite a few shops.  Everything from cycling and outdoor gear, to clothing and local arts and crafts.  Leadville is the center for some very extreme running and mountain biking events, as well as festivals.  Some of the events are world class and have even enticed Lance Armstrong to race here.  There is even a movie called, Race Across the Sky, that was filmed about one of the extreme mountain bike races here in Leadville.  So if you plan to go there, you may want to check ahead and see what events may be occurring during your travel time frame.

Leadville was originally a mining town.  The vast majority of miners have since left but the history remains.  We went by the Matchless Mine and checked out the old cabin of Baby Doe.  The Matchless Mine involves one of Colorado’s most famous Silver Kings, a love triangle and a life from riches to poor.   If you want to know more about the history of Leadville and mining you can visit the National Mining Hall of Fame and Museum there.

Just the beginning on the way to the summit

We had a great time in Leadville!  We experienced the town, the mountains, some cycling and the views.  It gave us one of our first excursions in the beautiful state of Colorado and made us want more!  Best of all, Teresa finished the race and still had the energy to do more!

Teresa riding the day after her race



Journey to the Center of Quebec

Join us to a unique region of the Province of Quebec where rolling hills gently rock your motorhome, where beautiful vistas leave you awestruck and where you can stop at small towns to sample award winning cheeses and wines and picnic under a large oak tree. And if your digestive system can still bear it, stop at the birthplace of “poutine”, a local delicacy expanding its artery hardening roots across North America (but more on this later). Welcome to Centre-du-Québec, a region set about 1hr30 from Montreal and 1hr from Quebec City, bordered by the St. Lawrence River and the Eastern Townships.

Cycling by the St. Lawrence

Our first destination was a campground at Deschaillons-sur-Saint-Laurent, which would become our home base for some beautiful bike rides bordering the St-Lawrence River. The campground is literally on the water; our front bumper was about ten feet from the shore.

Be aware that there is a very steep hill at the entrance of the campground, which descends to the waterfront sites. This hill is surfaced with loose gravel and is best climbed on foot to reach the main road. Heading east on route 132 we stopped at La Tomaterie in Saint-Pierre-les-Becquets for a sample of their fine foods in their lovely boutique. We couldn’t resist the chicken and veal meat pie and other treats and carefully placed them in our backpack for the ride back. This place will be an inescapable stop next time we are in the region. Although route 132 is a main road, there is ample room to ride on the roadside shoulder.

Cycling on Rte. 132

If biking is not your thing, take the scenic “Route des Navigateurs” along the St. Lawrence River to discover quaint riverside villages, and explore the region’s fauna and flora at the Centre d’interpretation de Baie-du-Faivre and various boardwalks along the River.

Rolling hills

We packed up and headed southeast where the foothills of the Appalachian Mountains appeared on the horizon and the views were just spectacular. Many of the hills are used as farmland, which brings a unique look to the landscape. Horses and cattle gently graze the hilly landscape, occasionally lifting their heads as a way to acknowledge our presence. One should not be in a hurry on these roads: Farmers and their equipment are often present, which leaves plenty of time to take in the scenery.

Enjoy a little picnic under the shady tree at the church in Saint-Norbert-d’Arthabaska

As a sidebar, if you noticed that many towns are named after a Saint, blame it on the French. A research in the history of Quebec’s toponymy allocates this particularity to French settlers as far back as the 17th century when much of the Province’s colonization resulted in the founding of missions and parishes. Consequently, in all the inhabited regions, religious names were already quite numerous at the end of the eighteenth century and well into the 19th to a point where some towns shared the same name (up to ten times in some cases)!

Hilltop views

Back to our journey, we took Rte. 263 from Princeville to Saint-Norbert-d’Arthabaska and further south to Saint-Fortunat. There is a beautiful church in St. Norbert, perched at the top of the hill, overlooking the region. Stop in the parking lot for a quick lunch or snack and marvel at the scenery while sitting under a majestic oak tree. At Saint-Fortunat watch for the scenic view panel, which leads to a hilltop tower offering a unique 360 degree view of the region where, on a clear day, you can see as far as the Green Mountains of Vermont. The road leading to the trailhead is quite narrow and although there is some room for a motorhome like our LTV Unity to turn around at the dead end, this maneuver can become impossible with the presence of other vehicles. The remainder of the trail is on foot, on a gentle slope, for about half a kilometer.

Heading out of Saint-Norbert-d’Arthabaska, after a nice lunch by the church.

For those who enjoy hiking, at a short distance from here lies Mont-Ham, a Regional Park offering 18km of trails of varying difficulty leading to a peak 713 meters high. Be aware that dogs are not allowed and the dirt roads leading to the Park are extremely dusty in dry conditions. We had dust everywhere and we promised our Unity that we would give it a warm bath as soon as we got home!

Award winning cheese

A little further west, one of our favorite stops had to be “La Fromagerie du Presbytère” in Sainte-Élizabeth de Warwick, a boutique style cheese factory with many award winning cheeses. We were able to park our Unity in front of the shop set in a church rectory built in 1936 and restored by locals in 2005.

Cheese wheels are cleaned and washed by Pat the robot

The shop offers all varieties of cheeses made on the premises

The town is traversed by a beautiful tree lined main street and make sure you cross the street and visit the general store where you can pick up fresh baguette, local wines and beers and they also roast their coffee beans. Although the store has been recently renovated, there is an old style feel that will take you back to some childhood memories.

Five major cycling loops

We picked up the official cycling map of the region at a Tourist Information Center. Out of the five suggested loops we chose one that took us into the heart of Victoriaville where a cheese festival was taking place. If you decide to visit the city with your motorhome, we are told there are some boondocking possibilities around the city, namely at the “Terre des Jeunes” park where you are allowed up to 72 hours of parking.


There is a debate as to which establishment can be attributed as the exact birthplace of Poutine. The increasingly popular “delicacy” is a combination of French fries, gravy and cheese curds and there is no debate about in which region it was invented, just which restaurant. Although there are a few places in the region that can legitimately claim responsibility, we chose one of the most popular called Le Roy Jucep in Drummondville. As the story goes, a few customers were asking for their fries with gravy and cheese so the owner decided to make it a regular offering. The name is allegedly a cross between “pudding” and “Ti-Pout”, the nickname of a cook in the restaurant at the time.

Ferry across the river

On our way back home in the Laurentians, we took a ferry crossing from Sorel-Tracy to Saint-Ignace-de-Loyola a short but very enjoyable trip across the St. Lawrence. Container ships can be seen slowly making their way to their destination, probably stopping in Montreal along the way. Taking the long way home through the side roads, we were thinking back at the wonderful few days spent in Centre-du-Québec, a region we were so glad we took the time to re-visit and we already planning our next trip there as it is impossible to see and do everything the region has to offer in such a short period.