We lucked into volunteer hiking jobs at Tuolumne Meadows in Yosemite National Park and spent the summer hiking four days a week! We learned a lot while we were there. Yosemite is a huge park that is broken into sections:
There are many miles to explore between each section of the park!
Tuolumne Meadows has a store, a grill, a post office and the Campground. The store, grill and post office are located in one building that also happens to be a kind of tent building. Pretty cool!
Tuolumne Meadows does not have a set opening day. It opens depending entirely on when the snow melts. We arrived in June and had the privilege of being in the campground for almost a week before it officially opened. We needed much of that first week to acclimate to the 8600’ elevation. Altitude sickness is very real and happens more often than you would think. Drink lots of water in the weeks before heading this way as it really helps!
Cell service is an iffy thing up there. Depending on the season, there may or may not be a tiny bit of Verizon and the possibility of an even smaller bit of AT&T. We have a boosted Verizon hot-spot and once the tower was turned on we got a whopping 5 bars of 1X service. We were essentially cut off from the world … once we got accustomed to it, it sure was nice!
We quickly realized that although we had left Texas, we had not left the mosquitos! They were bad and stayed bad for every bit of a month while snow melted and puddles evaporated. The biters were bad enough near water that we wore netting over our heads as they laughed at our mosquito spray! If mosquitos are a real problem for you, come later in the year. If flowing water and waterfalls are important, come early and come prepared.
Bears frequent the campground in search of high-calorie food. Let’s face it, almost anything humans eat will fatten up a bear far faster than grass! They will eat anything that smells good … including sunscreen, candles, soap and your food. Bear boxes are provided in the campground and at every trailhead to keep food and “smelly” items safe from bears. Please use them as a fed bear is a dead bear.
The drive through Tuolumne is beautiful. However, the really spectacular views are seen while hiking trails. There are even “social” trails which are not listed on the official map, but these trails are not necessarily maintained by the park. Let’s go through the park-maintained trails from our perspective. How is our perspective different?
We knew right away that paper maps weren’t our thing and while apps on a phone aren’t ideal for those who are staying out many nights, they are perfect for day-hikes!
Tracks where you went, time on the trail, time spent moving, pace and elevation gain. Pictures can be added and data downloaded in a shareable format. Be sure to download the trails you intend to hike before getting to the park as you will need data/service to download. Maps sometimes have trouble loading even after downloading, so check before you head out.
Shows your exact position on the trail with GPS coordinates. Can also record your tracks, time and elevation gain. Pins can be dropped; pictures and information can be added to the pins. Best thing is you can see everywhere you have been on one map. Maps for this app have to be purchased. Pricing starts at free and goes up from there! No data or service is needed after the map is downloaded!
Wildlife Sightings: Deer and marmot
This is an easy trail, most of which is on an old gravel road and very slightly uphill. The spring is bubbling out of the ground within a partial log cabin surrounding it. The water has an unusual taste and warnings tell you to drink at your own risk. Many people do drink this water and one couple makes an annual trip to get water from the spring to mix up a drink with Tequila and Tang! There are views of the river, meadow and surrounding mountains from the spring. If you like, extend the hike by continuing up to Parsons Lodge and then down the hill to cross the bridge into the meadow.
Wildlife Sightings: Deer and frogs
The first part of this trail is steep and we had to stop to rest a lot! The first time we hiked this trail we passed up the Lembert Dome trail as we thought it would be too hard … it’s not! Do both! The lake is pretty and if its early in the year there may be dragonfly’s emerging … it’s quite a sight! Lembert Dome has a bird’s eye view of the meadow and surrounding mountains and it is truly amazing.
Wildlife Sightings: An occasional deer and lots of marmots
Easy trail with very little elevation gain. Early in the season, the trail is quite busy due to PCT (Pacific Crest Trail) and JMT (John Muir Trail) hikers. It’s a pretty hike with nice river views.
Wildlife Sightings: Deer, coyote, bear and marmot
This is a fantastic, but deceiving trail. Leaving the trailhead, it is mostly all downhill which makes it really easy to go much farther than intended. Tuolumne Falls are about 6 miles down the trail and the beauty of the falls as well as the changing scenery make this hike fantastic. Coming back can be fairly strenuous, but it’s absolutely worth it.
Wildlife Sightings: Deer, marmot
This is a steep trail that takes you to May Lake and the May Lake High Sierra Camp. Note: High Sierra Camps have lodging and food but must be reserved in advance – possibly the year before. The views are great on the climb up and the lake is gorgeous. Upon arriving at the lake stay on the trail to the right, keeping the lake to your left. For a nice scenic view, continue past the lake always staying to the right and climb the rocks just before the switchbacks that lead down into a valley.
Wildlife Sightings: Coyote, deer and bear (during one hike we actually had two bear sightings!)
This pretty trail doesn’t have many mountain views but its rocky terrain is different from other trails. There’s plenty to look at and it’s a peaceful trail.
Wildlife Sightings: Deer, snake
Steep but shorter hike leading to a pretty lake. Early in the season, there will still be snow, a number of water crossings as well as many mosquitos. Later in the summer the marshy/boggy waterlogged areas will dry up and you can take a trail all the way around the lake.
Wildlife Sightings: Deer
This large and beautiful lake is worth every uphill step! The hike is steep and mostly wooded with a couple of stops along the way that should make the climb more interesting. We always fill our spare water bottle when we pass by the natural spring. Drink at your own risk.
Wildlife Sightings: Deer
Smaller lake that is just off the John Muir trail and high above the lower lake. This lake isn’t as popular but is well worth the extra climb. We were unable to walk around the whole lake as part of it is unpassable unless you wade/swim or maybe climb up and around some rocks.
Difficulty: Mono–4, Parker–4, Spillway–2.5
Wildlife Sightings: Deer, coyote
Spectacular views await from either of the passes. The trail up is through a forest with a number of creek crossings and a pretty good climb. As you get higher the trees will thin out and all but disappear. The wind will also pick up, so secure that hat! If your timing is good, you will see abundant wildflowers. There are a couple of old log cabins along the trail to the passes and more along a trail that “y’s” off of the main trail near Mono Pass. They are worth checking out. Spillway Lake starts at the same trailhead but veers off before you get to the really steep stuff.
Wildlife Sightings: Deer, weasel (there are Pika, but we never saw them)
This is my favorite trail, but it starts hard! Just take your time and stop to rest … it’s worth it. Trails to the lakes and mine are well defined, but there are no defined trails to Granite Lakes. Cross-country hiking is required. Use AllTrails and/or Avenza apps to navigate to the lakes and back.
Wildlife Sightings: Deer
Nice uphill hike that leads to an alpine meadow. The meadow is amazing and the views from the far side (if you can get there) of the lake are astounding. Early in the season, there is so much water that’s it’s nearly impossible to walk around the lake without getting wet.
This is not an all-inclusive trail list! There are other trails that we either did not hike or that could not be done in a day hike. Social trails are not included.
Infected with the American wanderlust. The climb behind the wheel and just drive kind. Always have been.
I first knew the affliction was grabbing hold as a teenager. And for the last several summers, I’ve been trying to slake that thirst embedded into the psyche of more than a few Americans, ever since, in fact, the colonists looked west wondering what was over the next ridge….and the next.
So, here I go again. Sitting in a truck stop near Rockford, Ill., waiting for a friend from Lake Geneva who I’ve infected too, apparently.
Dave and his wife Susie saw me drive off this morning, and Susie told me later that she knew that I’d sucked him into the vortex, too. Go, she told him as he saw me drive off. Because she was crushed, she said. Crushed to see that ‘wish I was going’ look take over his demeanor, as he I’m sure thought torn between “Jeez, I’d like to go, but I ‘couldn’t, because of the responsibilities he’d leave behind.
Responsibilities like being a thoughtful companion for a wife hobbled by a life-long balance problem.
“Never mind all that,” she told him, when I was about a half-hour away. “I can get along,” she said. Nurturing that infectious seed that I’d planted, you see? Also including caring for his honey bees, even though they pretty much take care of themselves this time of year. “Go,” she said again. Another seed. Also including caring for his dog. Doing things around the house. And, the biggest seed of all, dreaming, all the time, of going, and not. These things all of us have and experience, either serving to keep us from doing the things we want to do, or being the things we want or have to do instead. At least, most of us.
Not me. And now, apparently, not Dave.
“Drive your own car and when you want to come back, come back,” Susie told him. “Just go.” Bang. The virus now fully developed, takes hold. That easy.
So, he did. And so, here I sit, waiting for him to catch up and spell the fever that burst over him. In an hour or so, he arrived, and after a short break, we saddled up, and were on our way. He thanked me for waiting. It’s only time, I said. No big deal to wait to fulfill a longing.
We will drive via the grand nerve network of the United States called the Interstate system that a forward-thinking President Eisenhower built, not only for national security—most of it was meant as an auxiliary landing strip for our bombers during the attack by the Russians that never came. And, we will drive the old roads of our fathers, their fathers, and our nation’s forefathers, too. An homage to untold thousands of tales, I’m sure some like this very one. Hold that wagon, I’m on the way.
But we’re doing it also so we could continue that American journey that deep in our collective heart, we all want to take, despite those responsibilities, both real and imagined, that limit us from discovering more of ourselves and about ourselves, and the country we inhabit, far too often. I wrote about a similar trip here a few years ago. Probably no one read it except a handful of people. Perhaps that’ll also be the case again. But that does not matter. What matters is the act of doing. Not dreaming of doing. Sometimes, not even the planning of doing. But the pure doing of it.
With David in tow, and soon, another friend, Dennis, who also will join our little superhighway wagon train. West to the “promised land” of our forefathers, and what many who long to leave the “rust belt” still see as that.
It’s always been and will always be thus, thanks to that wanderlust we all share. From the time of Hudson, and Marquette, and Boone and Lewis and Clark and Keroac and countless others who’ve felt the same thing. West, this time, to Denver and the heart of the Rockies, and Colorado trout, and sunsets so stunning the sky is on fire, to paraphrase the late John Denver.
Time to take that trip you’ve dreamed of, but “something’s” always gotten in the way of. Believe it or not, you really do have the time. But in the time it takes for you to know it, you may not.